Some fabrics will be a major challenge to cut than others. Leather, suede and fur are three of these. You will also need to know how to mark the pieces of the model when making your dress designs.
LEATHER AND SUEDE
Leather and suede present special problems in the designer. To smooth out wrinkles, folds and extended shocks-use a warm iron (iron dry) on the wrong side and keep on pressing iron and hang onto it until the skin is smooth. These materials must be sewn with a larger than usual. All seams are sewn with duct tape to prevent pulling and cutting through the skin.
Both leather and suede come in the shape and size of the animal from which it gets. For full-size clothing larger sections should be placed, so your design must also be prepared in advance to take this into account and to have lines of patching form an integral part of the design.
IMPORTANT-do not PIN leather or suede-Cut and fit your entire model with precision in muslin and after that all fittings and alterations are as good as can be-use this template for your muslin in cutting off the suede or leather. Once your material is cut-is this-cannot be changed.
Pattern pieces was on the wrong side of the material, not PIN. Weight to hold it in place. Define and implement all trademarks with the tailor chalk. Cut. Seam allowance need not exceed 1/4 inch but neckline and weapons must be remain laced with duct tape to strengthen all possible strain and tearing.
In the processing of leather or suede stitched-the first has to be the final sewing. If stitching must be removed and made above, the material will be weakened and halve the needle and unsightly blemishes will be produced.
FUR
Cutting of fur is very demanding and difficult, but if the call to outfit your designs will want to know how fur trimming is done. Follow the same procedure for marking as you did with your skin and suede. Place the fur side down and do all your marking on the side of the skin. With a sharp razor blade cut the Hide-but be careful not to cut the fur itself. After you finish this procedure of shear grab fur with both hands and firmly pull apart on each side of the cut
THE PIECES OF MARKING PATTERN
MARKING CHALK
Lift cautiously pattern from cutting table of gypsum board with side of muslin. With your analysis wheel trace every marking, all lines of sewing and any sign of the cross. Use short strokes and firm and lift wheel in each stroke so that the material is pushed out of place.
Remove from Blackboard and check that all the signs are clear. Remove reason muslin, but does not unfold material. Place the side opposite chalk tab and proceed to celebrate this side by tracing over the first few lines brushed. Once again check that all the signs are clear and that they have forgotten anyone.
Not thread knot. Leave a piece of tail and ensure your thread with one or two points back. Terminate your line to score points in the same way. Node. Ever your node marking or baste discussions. You will operate less trouble in this way, when pulling out later.
Begin and end each straight line stitching in the same way. Do not turn the corners with a wire. Breaking your thread that changes direction every time and start anew.
Cross marks take the place of notches. In making use of cross marks a double wire, without knots and not back stitches. Start with a queue, taking small stitches running and ending with a coda.
MARKING PIN
On lightweight materials when chalk marks will not show up very well marking pin is used. For very delicate materials, on which pins leave permanent marks use needles.
Cut and mark carefully and you will get nice results to suit your designs.
Learn how to become an expert at cutting and marking dress fabric
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